Saturday, December 31, 2016
Easter weekend and the train to Santa Maria Novella rumbles into town at 9pm after a heavy rain. The station’s nearly empty. Let’s not call it a torrent, but the cobblestone streets are still shiny in the streetlights. I opt for a cab, though I could easily walk it, and five minutes later I’m floating through the foyer of the Relais Santa Croce, up the broad stairs, back to the familiar front desk. There’s a fire roaring in the big room next to reception, and a very happy couple sit shoulder-to-shoulder on the wide couch facing it and I don’t want to disturb their moment, so I wander over to the window and stare down at the street below. By now it’s lightly misting outside, deserted. Why the heck not? The deskman hands me a big umbrella, I say I’m just going to take a short stroll, and out I go into a Firenze I have never seen, not a soul on the street, a glossy night, with the luxury to meander at my own pace. My eyes fall on stray details, the peculiar iridescence of white marble through the diffuse screen of fog, columns and facades which are heroic, opulent, ornate, towering overhead, the absence of noise, the occasional flash of a colorful neon sign in a dark window, unseen sculptures in hidden alcoves. Usually I am jockeying humans on these sidewalks, trying to avoid rear-ending somebody. Tonight I wander unencumbered into Santa Croce, swing through the Duomo, loop down to the Arno, cross the Ponte Vecchio which is empty and feels like a movie set. I lose all sense of the hour. But at 1230am, two and a half hours later, I’m back climbing the stairs at the Relais. “Had a good walk?” the deskman asks, glancing at his watch. “Far too short,” I answer. He sighs. “The restaurant is closed, but have you seen our Room Service menu? We can have something delicious up to your room in no time!”
Rooftops. I can’t stop staring at the rooftops. They stretch ahead of me to eternity, a thousand shapes, into infinity. From my perspective on the roof terrace of the Baglioni Hotel Regina, overlooking the Via Veneto, a swirl of recollection encompasses me, and I dream of La Dolce Vita, La Grande Bellezza, seasoned with a playful soundtrack by Nino Rota. Somewhere in the streets out there my every cinema dream took shape. My stomach is growling. But the rooftops are listening. Come back into the streets, they say. All that’s missing is the hearty dish of pasta and a basket overflowing with crisp grissini, which can be easily had. You can find that trattoria you liked so much last trip, order a glass of chianti, take a moment to see who’s sitting at the next table. A spontaneous rendezvous? But first, the rooftops with their thousands of stories. They stretch into eternity and now I get it: no wonder they call this city Eternal. Here you have all the time in the world, and there is no time like the present.
“I can never see all that there is when I’m out window shopping,” she comments. She means, perhaps, that she wants to stop in front of every display, and walk into half the stores where she pauses. She’s sitting in the bar at the Carlton, sipping her Spritz Aperol. She looks fantastic in her winter wool, in her chic sunglasses.
“Did you know,” I say, “that there’s a private doorway here that leads to the Via della Spiga? You can walk out whenever you like. You can come back whenever you like.”
“It is true they change the windows frequently,” she says. “ I can go out tomorrow and there will be new things to happen upon.”
“Undoubtedly,” I answer.
“I don’t need to get in a taxi.”
“You can reach most of the places you like on foot,” I say. “The Duomo’s less than ten minutes away. And that restaurant you liked, the one that published poetry books.”
“Then what are we waiting for?” she asks, taking a last sip, placing her glass decisively on the table next to a half-full dish of cerignola olives.
“I am waiting for you,” I say. “And I have all day. I shall follow you everywhere.”
“You are a magnificent man,” she tells me. “To give so generously of your time.”
Real Venetians never walk fast, and here is why.
Venice is built on a foundation of tree trunks, taken from the nearby forests of the Veneto. The tree trunks were pounded into the silt of the lagoon. Atop such pilings the palaces were constructed. It took thousands of years for the forests to grow. Over the space of five centuries the Venetians built their city and their navies from the lumber they harvested.
The Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta on the island of Torcello is the oldest church in Venice, dating to 639. Ferries to Torcello run less frequently than the usual vaporetti, leaving from the Fondamente Nuove stop. Unless you charter your own boat, a trip to Torcello, a walk around and the return to proper Venice will last a half day.
The palaces of Venice went through stylistic fads from the 13th to the 18th centuries, and many were restored in the 19th century. The Luna Hotel Baglioni palazzo, which is located just off Piazza San Marco, dates to 1118, and throughout the years has undergone transformations from a convent into an aristocratic palace and even a shelter for the Knights Templar. A cruise down the Grand Canal will take you past Byzantine, Gothic, Baroque and Palladian examples. Popular outcry followed the destruction of many architectural treasures in the 19th century and led to the preservation mentality which no longer allows radical alterations to Venice’s historic landscape.
Which is why Venetians walk slowly. It has taken them a long time to get to this point, and hurrying will not be tolerated.
The horizon cannot have appreciably changed since 1974, when Roberto Polito built his first establishment here in Punta Ala, facing the islands of the Tuscan archipelago.
From the terrace of Hotel Cala del Porto, situated on a promontory above the marina and set among Maremma pines, distant Corsica is visible off to the left, with magnificent Elba straight ahead. To the north on the mainland reside the historic cities of Piombino and Carbonifera. This area’s historic excavations date back to Paleolithic times. Sites of iron mines established by the Romans can still be found on the island of Elba.
The sea cannot be rushed, nor can a voyage under sail. Once you cast off, it could be days before you return. If you can persuade your captain to set sail, he will plot a course to Portoferraio on Elba. You cross the white-capped channel, the same steps which Napoleon Bonaparte took 200 years ago when he sailed into the tiny port on the north shore of the celebrated island. Napoleon spent almost a year of compulsive activity, building a road system, raising defenses, draining marshes, renovating palaces, plotting his escape and putting down a miners’ uprising which he caused after levying taxes on the poor fellows. A year later he left town, bound for Paris, eventual defeat at Waterloo, and final exile on the isle of St. Helena. Despite the sad end to his story, people here still gratefully remember Bonaparte, in fact a mass has been said for him daily in local churches for the two centuries since he departed.
My plan is a more modest one: I shall stroll ancient lanes and seek out a table at an open air portside cafe, and sample a frate, the local donut which goes so well with one of those strong Italian coffees. Less ambitious than Napoleon, but immediately, sweetly gratifying.
Thursday, March 24, 2016
New Meets Old on Three Continents
The following will appear as
LUCIRE SPRING 2016 TRAVEL SECTION
with photographs by Paula Sweet
Six months on the road, and much to report to you: Costa Rica’s Pacific coast, Italy, Paris, Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains. The odyssey continues, and here’s the latest:
Mona Lisa Slept Here
One hundred fifteen years ago Vincenzo Peruggia removed la Gioconda from her frame in the Louvre and spirited her across the Seine to Saint Germain des Pres, to a seedy, top floor apartment. There the most famous painting in history slept unmolested, secreted away from the masses, even evading a visit by Paris police. Today you can occupy the same room (‘Adorateur’) where Mona Lisa slumbered, at the marvelous Hotel Da Vinci, a charming Left Bank 4-star of only 24 rooms which opened in June 2014. Great location aside, steps from Cafe de Flore, ornate Belle Epoque ambience prevails, colored with blue and gold and dark wood accents. Many rooms with private terraces. Leonardo-inspired motifs drawn from his works complete the decor. Can’t take our eyes off the old style room phone, branded slippers and the classy umbrellas available at the entry! Special appreciation for the ornate breakfast room with its groovy marble floor, and the very cool round window table, perfect for people-watching as you sip your cafe au lait. Through the back door you’ll find a little garden/meeting space which seats up to eight. Downstairs a spa and hammam await you, which Da Vinci includes in some romantic package offerings. Very attractive special deals can be found on the website, and a call to the property may yield even better rates. This extremely fun hotel doesn’t have the biggest rooms in the world. But you will always be happy to return to it, especially once you learn the “missing piece”, the eccentric location of the secret release button at the lower left by the entry door.
Star design team does it again
Hotel de Seze, the latest design adventure from architects Anne Peyroux and Emmanuèle Thisy, adds another fine lodging choice to the neighborhood near the Place de la Madeleine. As always, lush fabrics, sleek furnishings and modern carpets contribute to the signature gloss. Telling signs like joyful laughter from the reception area attest to the property’s general amiability, as does the very happy lady who presides over the cozy breakfast room of only 8 tables. Comfort, texture and shopping are the keywords which describe this new boutique hotel of only 22 rooms and suites, set between the Faubourg St. Honore and the department stores of the Grands Boulevards, a stone’s throw from the Boulevard des Italiens and the Opera Garnier. Midst a symphony of calm greys, the brand spanking new 4-star exudes discretion and cool. We loved room 61, a top floor junior suite with skylit bathroom, and priceless view over typical rooftops all the way up to Sacre Coeur. Plop yourself down in the cozy sitting area and empty your shopping bags - there’s abundant space to spread out the choices for your evening’s ensemble.
Hotel Monsieur, a bright new lodging tribute to Sascha Guitry (Who’s he? Ask any French person!) has opened in a prime location in the 8th arrondisment, near many celebrated gastronomic institutions. A property of only 29 rooms, with 2 exceptional suites, you can get in on the first act of a comfortable entrance to the Parisian hotel scene, set in a typical residential quartier. Decorated with images from Guitry’s greatest plays and productions, and walking distance from the Theatre des Mathurins (originally named Theatre de Monsieur a century ago, from which it takes its name) you’ll find many options in decor. Impresario-grade 602, the Sascha Guitry suite and biggest in the property, takes a bow with 2 bathrooms; breakfast on its private terrace highly recommended, weather permitting. Room 605 features a flamboyant yellow bed, lovely view, and ornate tile details. The romantic 404 is a tour de force of passionate red like a proscenium, scarlet floor accented with black lacquer highlights. The ground floor breakfast room adjacent lounge, and constant coffee bar with gluten-free pastries make the public areas a pleasurable launchpad for your active day. This stylish hotel delivers great value, modern design, and dramatic flourishes well worth your standing ovation.
“No does not exist.”
It’s tough to name another hotel where, at the moment you check in under the Premium Program, you are introduced to an individual with the alluring job title of Suite Ambassador. This particular event definitely happens at Florence’s Hotel Brunelleschi where the polymath polyglot Paulus makes you feel instantly welcome to what he calls a “house with a heart.” At 86 rooms,10 of them suites, the Brunelleschi can’t really be described as a boutique property. Yet the hotel successfully delivers on the promise with an uncrowded and personalized vibe. It’s deceptively quiet and calm for a place of such capacity, the majority of guests from US/UK, staying an average of 2-3 nights. In operation for 35 years, the rooms are new, up-to-date and state-of-the-art. It could also explain why the Brunelleschi is a favorite destination for medium-sized corporate meetings- a spacious function room comfortably hosts up to 100, but you hardly know it’s there.
The keywords to this elegant 5-star are History, Service and Location. Built on Roman foundations, its facade preserves an Ottoman-era tower -oldest in Florence - dating from the 8th century, which integrates seamlessly with the modern wings. Many Florentine hotels celebrate the city’s connection with art, but few have such a direct attachment to the living history of the city. The Brunelleschi even maintains a subterranean museum for serious time-traveling back to the Roman era. The past, if not in the walls, is always directly under your feet. The hotel’s optimal location can’t be beat. Step out the front door, make a fast left turn and you’re on the main shopping avenue. Everything wonderful within walking distance.
Paulus says that “no” does not exist at the Brunelleschi, and having tested the claim Lucire can vouch that the statement is a true one. Service was uniformly helpful, positive, attentive.
Kudos to the breakfast options, twists on classics at good prices- two dining rooms with opulent buffet choice, one with a striking view of the Liberty Lounge’s vintage leaded glass windows, and the amazing private dining Santa Elizabetta room for Premium Program guests in the Pagliazza Tower. The intimate space seats only 20 people, and in the evenings doubles as the hotel’s fine dining room. There you need to taste the Osteria’s flambe selections, where maitre d’ Demetrios hovers at a discreet distance, attentive to your every need. The service aspect continues throughout the Premium Program which includes champagne, macarons, private breakfast, ironing, shoeshine, packing help, flowers, finest grade linens and custom amenities. Paulus will even find you a hot air balloon. Mention needs to made about the American Bar where bar ambassador Beata mixes a picture perfect Cosmopolitan with a twist: the critical ingredient (besides utter professionalism) is spirits from Sicily: well worth a try.
Upstairs, consider the Pagliazza Tower Suite #415, 2 levels, 2 baths, circular bed, spiral stairs, facing the Duomo. It has an outdoor jacuzzi on a private terrace. We could go on with a longer list of super details, but internet search on in-room televisions lends an added window into the present day. If that sounds like a mystery out of a Dan Brown book, you can always ask your kids how it works.
An Ever-Reliable Beloved Friend
There’s no better news than to rediscover a place time and again, which upholds the standards of excellence, service and personality like Milan’s Hotel Baglioni Carlton. Lucire checked in for an update in January 2016. What’s not to love about this delirious five-star with its always-gracious welcome, world-class team, and private portal opening onto the Via della Spiga? Walking distance from the best shopping in Milano, an easy stroll to the Duomo, surrounded by stratospheric restaurant choices, The Carlton can’t be compared to other properties. It’s a well-established watering hole whose public spaces are ideal for business meetings. The incomparable Il Baretto Al Baglioni remains one of the consistently great dining experiences in the city. And familiar faces like Concierge Lino and barman Maurizio make every interaction a pleasure, akin to warm reunions with old and dear friends. Familiar details abound, all reflecting the Baglioni brand’s incomparable eye for Italian style. Hot tip: room service breakfast at the Carlton always a brilliant way to ease into your day.
Santa Teresa, Costa Rica
Otherworldy escape and legendary waves
Not all surfers shall cling to the grunge fringe. That is to say, you could live quite cheaply at the bottom of the food chain in Santa Teresa, Costa Rica, sleep under palm fronds in a budget hammock, carry your board a quarter mile to the beach under your arm, brave the mosquitoes and live on grilled catch of the day at open-front food stands with American price tags. Other shredders prefer to avail themselves of the serious comfort and isolation offered at Florblanca, an outstanding hideaway of 9 luxury villas ideally set on the Surf Coast beachfront, with all the amenities and privacy only a five-star property can deliver. The package includes complimentary daily visits by shimmering green iguanas, who sun themselves on the warm walls adjacent to your breakfast table. Try the signature granola and fruit for a serious power hit to begin your day. The kitchen offers flavorful twists on local produce, with exceptional seafood preparations and the most accommodating barman in the Western Hemisphere. A world-class spa nestled among the lofty overgrowth makes this resort even more of a destination. Twenty years ago Santa Teresa was a sleepy, empty, slow-paced fishing village. Today, filled with surf schools, repair shops, accessory stores and many levels of lodging, the speed of life and no-worries attitude somehow remains. A dusty, rutted main road has many small lanes leading directly to the water, as the procession of wave worshipers comes and goes with the rising tide. Florblanca, a secure, honeymoon-appropriate oasis among the jungle foliage, has all the beauty, tranquility and exclusivity the luxury traveler seeks. You walk from your villa directly to the sand undisturbed and uninterrupted. Within minutes you’ve paddled out into the swaying swells, your panoramic view encompassing one of the most awe-inspiring, lush and verdant shorelines to be found on planet earth.
A modern spa at a first class traditional resort
An easy one hour’s drive from Marrakech, set in a wooded mountain valley, a new facility for luxury indulgence will surprise you. La Roseraie Spa Retreat specializes in herbal remedies, all locally sourced. This marvelous discovery will delight on every level. The factor of comfort is optimal, and the setting and decor will enhance your experience. Luxurious cushions, blankets and rugs in the bright Berber palettes, cool cottons and artisan textures surround you. World class professionals operate the spa with highest standards and unique treatments, many which can be taken outdoors when weather permits.The little details like foot or hand massage in relax areas add to the welcoming environment. La Roseraie boasts the only salt table in Morocco, a therapeutic bed of local crystals used for exhilirating rubs. Best of all, there’s a VIP treatment room ideal for a couple, an exclusive wing of the spa featuring private bath and hammam, secluded balcony with seating under the boughs of ancient trees. Most of all, it’s your chance for indulgence, reconnection with body and spirit in a totally holistic setting. A fantastic discovery, highly recommended.
La Roseraie Spa Retreat is set in the grounds of Domaine de la Roseraie, a nostalgic resort property with sprawling rose gardens and exotic plantings. You’ll find apple, quince, plum and peach trees, cactus and herb gardens, a thousand trilling birds. This is a traditional property operated in the old style, with huge suites and very comfortable accommodations. Some private villas. Many luminaries have stayed here- you would not believe the names inscribed in the livre d’or. Mostly UK visitors, staying an average of 2-3 nights. Two excellent restaurants and al fresco terrace dining. Lucire will take a deeper look at this property in a later issue, so stay tuned.
Luxury Rediscovered in La Kasbah
You never know what you find behind closed doors and ancient walls in La Kasbah. Friends introduced us to a sparkling new property of 12 suites, Riad Almaha, a pretty amazing place. Sleeps up to 30, huge rooms, full renovation, totally modern plumbing, impeccably decorated. All the upstairs suites have private terrace access. Once you’ve passed through the secret entrance behind a display shelf of craftsman baskets you stray into a fusion of contemporary art with traditional craft in utterly beautiful, tranquil surroundings. A huge tiled courtyard surrounded by greenery allows fantastical leaps to an era of magnificent palaces and ultra luxury. You will love the library room with its folded-page book art. The Pixel Room with its massive mosaic walls of diamond shaped upholstered pieces resembles no place you have ever seen before. There’s even a private tiled pool tucked away in its own corner on the roof. Below ground level you’ll discover an elegant hammam and spa. This is definitely a discreet and private riad experience, and one whose exclusivity is meant to be enjoyed privately. We recommend taking over the whole property and inviting a group of friends. Two small downsides: it’s well-hidden in a location which requires a driver or at least a guide, even though it is no more than a 10 minute walk from the Jmaa Al Fnaa- you don’t want to be wandering the Kasbah’s labyrinthine streets in your evening wear; and though the property has an outstanding kitchen with 24-hour room service, there’s no restaurant, and the public isn’t allowed. Almaha transports you, there is no doubt, and we definitely want to stay there.
Ministers of Taste
Alessandra Lippini and Fabrizio Bizzari are an expatriated Italian power couple who have lived and worked in Morocco for the last 20 years. She’s former Style Editor of Vogue Italy, and he is a visionary architect. Together they have realized a group of amazing projects under their Ministero Del Gusto business banner. Their gallery in the Marrakech medina, near the Mosque Moassine is a required stop (appointment only) on the art tourism circuit, and their many residential and hotel projects are the mythological stuff you find in coffee table books with titles like “Marrakech Style” and “Elegant Moroccan Homes.” Today the duo handles a full complement of projects for both corporate and private clients. We visited a number of their works, inspired by their respect for heritage, love of materials, Italian sensibility. Their latest project, a total rebuild of a classic riad in the beach city of Essaouira demonstrates a level of virtuosity and fidelity rarely seen. It’s all about vision, and the projects of Lippini and Bizzari always transcend.
Tuesday, March 10, 2015
Grab and Go in Goa
When the sun disappears from the sky on the rare winter afternoon in the Indian province of Goa, intrepid tourists flee the legendary beaches for a day trip to the old port city of Panjim. Set on the delta of the river Panjovi, it’s a great place to explore colonial neighborhoods where classic architecture coexists with modern concept, cultural landmarks nestle side by side with bustling commerce, and fresh seafood is the name of the culinary game. Goa’s pace - slower than the madcap vitality of megacities like Bombay (an hour by air to the north) - invites leisurely meandering along the tree-lined riverfront, where casino ships wait at the shore for night to fall. The pleasing, humid afternoon air seems more appropriate for picnic-style al fresco dining rather than indoor restaurant experiences.
On a recent walkabout in Panjim we stumbled upon Chicken Man, who may sound like some kind of a Marvel Comics superhero, but isn’t. A new quick-service restaurant concept for Goa, the just-opened modern storefront caught our attention, and turned out to be the flagship location and first in India under this new brand name. The menu is a simple one, but perfect for the picnic mentality: good rotisserie chicken (spicy or crispy), excellent sides, packed to go, ideal for the park bench feast. There’s fast counter service, a few window tables for those in a hurry, and -unheard of in Goa- free delivery, in case you’re staying in a Panjim hotel. The kid-friendly menu looks like a good value, too and there are free refills on the fountain drinks.
Save your seafood feast for later. Chicken Man turns out to be the ideal grab and go meal for a day of wandering. You need only locate a couple cold Kingfisher beers from any of the tiny groceries, and your outdoor banquet is complete.
+91 832 242 3333
Monday, September 22, 2014
ANTONIO PIGAFETTA RETURNS TO VICENZA
You never quite know what you’ll find happening in the city of Vicenza.
Take, for example, a commemoration honoring the 500th anniversary of Magellan’s voyage around the world. Why in Vicenza? Magellan didn’t make it home from the 2-year cruise, struck down in a hail of spears on a remote Phillippine island, after turning his canon on indigenous residents, having chosen the wrong side during a local rebellion. But Antonio Pigafetta, a Vicentino scholar and paying passenger on the ship, survived the attack. Upon his return he gave the only eyewitness account of Magellan’s untimely end. Pigafetta’s house still stands in Vicenza, the finest example of Gothic architecture in the city, and an oft-visited destination on the architectural walking tour, which mostly includes the finest examples of works by Palladio.
Unexpected things always appear year-round in little Vicenza, less known than its nearby sisters Venice and Verona, both easily accessible, about a half hour distant. A re-enactment of Pigafetta’s return home included a procession of costumed actors followed by horn players, drummers and flag-throwers, who stopped intermittently among Vicenza’s narrow cobbled streets and Renaissance plazas to perform balletic routines to stirring drum rolls. The procession ended on Pigafetta’s doorstep, where the great man himself read from his diaries of the circumnavigation completed five centuries ago.
In the town square called the Piazza Signori, a thriving market of delicacies was in progress, and later in the day local residents could be seen sampling from the stalls: cheeses, salumeria, exotic honeys, rustic breads and the first black truffles of the season.
Thursday, September 18, 2014
A BUSY WEEK FOR PATRIZIA SANDRETTO RE REBAUDENGO
In a whirlwind week, two extraordinary events occurred in northern Italy, both under the stewardship of Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo.
On the night of Wednesday, September 10 at the Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo in Torino, a traveling exhibition showcasing the finalists to this year’s Prix Pictet launched. This year’s theme, Consumption, introduced by Pictet’s Stephen Barber at a gala reception, themes the world’s most prestigious annual photography prize. You can visit this important show at the Fondazione’s impressive and expansive space, a converted factory, through October 12.
The following Sunday, September 14, Divine, an installation focusing on highlights from the 20th century costume jewelry collection of Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, opened at Ca’D’oro in Venezia. A gathering of local luminaries and international guests witnessed the official launch of the show. Over 400 objects notable for their history and elegance are displayed in the Galleria Georgio Franchetti, remaining on exhibit through January 11, 2015.
In her exhibition notes, Sandretto re Rebaudengo says she first developed interest in accessible costume jewelry designs because they represent a cultural heritage that “brings us back to hard times and great social change.” But you will find they are also remarkable for their craftsmanship and inherent beauty.
Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo
Via Torino Modane 16, Torino
tel. +39 011 3797600
Via Torino Modane 16, Torino
tel. +39 011 3797600
Ca D’Oro Galleria Giorgio Franchetti
Cannaregio 3932, Venice
Tue-Sun: 8:15 to 19:15 / Monday: 8.15-14
Cannaregio 3932, Venice
Tue-Sun: 8:15 to 19:15 / Monday: 8.15-14
|Prix Pictet reception in Torino|
|Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo in Venezia|
|Stephen Barber introduces the Prix Pictet exhibition in Torino|
Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Gifts By The Sea
|The last dozen oysters at Drake's Bay Oyster Farm.|
Back in 2012, Lucire reported to readers on the little luxuries to be discovered in Tomales Bay, California, specifically the splendor of local oysters found there. In the intervening years conditions have changed for the oysters, with a shrinking world population.
Recently well-meaning activists forced the shutdown of the retail store at Inverness’ Drake’s Bay Oyster Farm, a fixture of the community for a half century, renowned for succulent Pacifics, and a company which furnishes 40% of all the oysters produced in the state of California. A strange coalition of environmentalists, the Sierra Club, politicians and moneyed newcomers in collusion with government bureaucracies managed to cancel the farm’s lease, a decision largely unpopular with residents, not to mention the end of livelihood for a dozen families, and to the disappointment of a cadre of restauranteurs and aficionados. Subsequently an advocacy group has filed yet another lawsuit with the US Supreme Court to protest this action. We made a visit to Drake’s Bay on the last day that their retail store was open, sampled a dozen on the half-shell opened before our very eyes, and exchanged a poignant hug with Nancy Lunny, a member of the family who owns the farm. We stood at the water’s edge, staring out at the pristine landscape, gobbling down the oysters, rich in the flavor of the sea, tender and gelatinous, garlanded with a dash of home-made mignonette. For the slowest food available you must seek out the source, and Drake’s Bay was just that. A rare opportunity which may disappear, go while you can. May they remain open, may we continue to profit from their bounty of the bay.
We had the opportunity to sleep at Osprey Peak Bed & Breakfast, a 3-room Zen-style inn tucked into a cypress grove on a hillside just beyond the hamlet of Inverness. Quiet, elemental, totally comfortable, with every modern convenience, the property stands far away from the main road, yet accessible to all the local landmarks. On arrival, Innkeeper Nancy set out a table in a clearing, steps from the front entrance, with a platter of local cheeses, condiments and bread, accented by seasonal fruits, accompanied by glasses of Beaulieu Coastal Cabernet. The simplicity and elegance of the display and the gesture epitomize the property. This tranquil retreat may appear austere, but the breakfast table (included in room rate) features a bevy of fresh cut fruits, house-made granola, and other specialties, ordered the night before from a detailed menu. During your meal you can watch hundreds of hummingbirds zipping about the adjacent terrace sampling at suspended feeders. Their thrumming may be the only extraneous sound you hear beyond the whooshing of the pines close at hand. You’re guaranteed a deep sleep in a comfortable bed, a graceful awakening, not to mention a discreet and private refuge to return to after your day of activity. Highly recommended, but reserve early.
Nature watching, hiking, kayaking and small craft sailing complement rich dining possibilities around Tomales Bay. We stopped back into Nick’s Cove in Marshall, intending to put away a quick dozen Kumamotos, but we couldn’t stop, and next ordered half-dozens three different ways: Mornay, BBQ and Rockefeller, washed down with a delicious NZ Sauvignon Blanc. A wonderful interlude resulting in 30 empty half shells, after which we remembered the Walrus and the Carpenter: “they’d eaten every one.” Chef Austin Perkins continues to tantalize guests with seafood offerings worthy of your attention. And Lucire also recommends a night in any of Nick’s eccentric cabins on the water.
Back in Inverness we had the distinct pleasure of a world-class meal at Saltwater, Luc Chamberland’s celebrated restaurant just across the street from the southern shoreline where the hull of a beached fishing boat can be viewed. Think Slow Food Marin style, with a great wine list of West Coast luminaries, and outstanding French and Italian bottles thrown in for good measure. We chose a bottle of classic Chablis, Domaine Chantemerle, a 2010 Burgundy, which paired perfectly with our dozen Hog Island Kumamotos shucked by the owner himself. Next we moved over to Chef Ryan Cantwell’s rustic fare: Sweet Brentwood Corn Soup accessorized by a refreshing and surprising mint relish. As a main course, wild Oregon Coho Salmon, set on a foundation of white bean ragout, accompanied by a soft farm egg (genius!), olive relish and roasted watermelon radishes. For dessert we tried the Double 8 Meyer Lemon gelato, delicate and not sweet, served with a Scottish shortbread, clairvoyantly prefiguring our next destination. Hard to believe there is such a lively place out at the end of the highway, but Saltwater’s a destination restaurant deserving of its great reputation. We enjoyed the optimum of hospitality and fine preparation, and recommend adding this establishment into your travel plan. But again, reservations a must, and understandably so.
Several weeks later we found ourselves halfway around the world, at the very top of the Scottish mainland in the harbor city of Scrabster, waiting for a ferry to take us across to the Orkney Islands for a visit to the Ring of Brodgar. Down south in the Edinburgh area you undoubtedly could locate some exciting culinary choices, but off into the hinterlands the delectability quotient drops precipitously. The one great barometer of quality might be fish and chips, the ubiquitous equivalent to fast food in the UK. Here we were at yet another shore almost 5000 miles away from Tomales Bay, zero food miles from the source. Thus we were fortunate to identify a compact and unmarked takeaway stand next to The Captain’s Galley seafood restaurant which faces the ferry terminal. There we discovered owner Jim Cowie dipping freshly-filleted haddock pieces in handmade batter, delicately placing the pieces in a bubbling vat of superheated palm oil. The result was beyond reproach: the finest fish and chips ever sampled, feathery, light, flavorful, and for good reason. Jim’s a proponent of Slow Food, and had purchased the haddock that very morning at the harbor, directly from the fisherman who caught it. We learned that the adjacent restaurant he operates with wife Mary in a repurposed ice house originally constructed in the 1700s is known for the freshest, finest fish in the region. Scrabster is the “Gateway Port” where fishing boats land their catches from some of the richest fishing grounds in the world. But was this pescatory discovery evidence of a consistent experience or simply a fluke? Several days later, on our return from Orkney we disembarked and headed straight back to the The Captain’s Galley for a return engagement. Again we found Jim at the same fryer, but recommending today’s catch of the day, hake: delectable, flaky, sweet to the palate. Impossible to resist! We next ordered battered Highland langoustines, and doused them with malt vinegar and sea salt. They disappeared in less than 120 seconds. It proves once again that a voyage to the source, whether here or there, pays the highest culinary dividends. Look to the shore, traveler, and rewards always follow.
Osprey Peak Bed & Breakfast
Nancy Beck & David Herbst, Innkeepers
10 Miwok Way, Box 923, Inverness, CA 94937
23240 Highway One
Marshall CA 94940
Saltwater Oyster Depot
12781 Sir Francis Drake
Inverness, CA 94937
The Captain’s Galley
The Harbour, Scrabster KW14 7UJ, UK
01847 894 999
|The delta leading to Drake's Bay|
|Picnic table overlooking Drake's Bay|
|All that's left at Nick's Cove, after a dozen Kumamotos and a half dozen BBQ'd.|
|Cheese platter and wine al fresco at Osprey Peak|
|Regenerated fallen tree at Osprey Peak|
|Dining room in repurposed ice house- The Captain's Galley, Scrabster UK|
|Jim Cowie, frying up the haddock at the takeaway stand next to The Captain's Galley|
|Daily specials at the takeaway stand, The Captain's Galley, Scrabster|
|The best haddock and chips in the world|
|The unmarked takeaway stand at Scrabster Harbor|
|The Captain's Galley, Scrabster, housed in a repurposed ice house from the 1700s|